The final schematics of the overall POV display design are shown below. There is a base PCB that mounts on the PC fan and a POV display PCB along with a secondary transformer coil that mounts at the center of the fan blades. I decided to dust off this old classic project and bring some improvements from what I have learned from the older versions. The biggest problems with the first 3 versions I built many years ago is that none of them really lasted more than a year or two because the slip rings or brushes wear out and cease to conduct current for the spinning board. Even the brushes inside the DC motors wear out and they simply quit running. Also I used to have trouble programming PIC microcontrollers and not to mention that many of the code I'm used to for PICs were written in raw assembly code. No more! There are many ways to enhance this devise with many other added features. Or it could also be used for some other project as a basic component. The most important part of the system is microcontroller. It controls whole system. In here I have used an ATmega32A microcontroller.

Conventional methods of displaying images or massage to public are using LCD display and dot-matrix LED displays. Propeller LED display is a special kind of device that project an image, text or time as if the images are floating in the air. Actually the floating images emerge by synchronizing LED’S blink to form an image at particular time and rate.tape, which no longer serve any purpose. You will now be able to hold the inner layer in place with a few spots of glue. Display fixed message strings without needing the FSK circuitry or a PC transmitting over RS232 (there is a commented out snippet of code in the example to do this). Cut a piece of wire and strip both ends (small strip lengths). The wire should be long enough to connect the solder from step 3 to the top transistor solder/strand.

(propeller_posn==15) Remove the Arduino programmer and apply power to the POV base and motor. That's really all there is to it!

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Repeated scanning of the display is necessary for continuous vision of image. This task is achieved using continuous circular rotation of the whole circuit assembly. Therefore a DC motor has used as the prime mover. Connect the 3.7V, 240mAh battery according to the circuit and don’t forget to add a single pole toggle slide switch on the positive lead for ON and OFF operation of the circuit. Now insert the resistors and bend its leads the same as you did for LED’s. Cut the extra leads accordingly.

(propeller_posn==40) Now, Mount the whole project to a chipboard with the help of a toy DC motor. Keep in mind that if you use a powerful motor for high speed, you may use a 9V to 12V battery instead. (propeller_posn==5) if ((propeller_posn==0) delayMicroseconds(450); // for the gap between LED pixels/minutes markers (change the value according to motor speed. Increase for low speed, decrease for high speed motor)